How to use salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid together

Adding acids in your skincare routine can often sound intimidating. Especially as the skincare-verse is a maze that’s not the easiest to navigate. New product categories, textures, ingredients and a flood of new brands every week — deciding what works for you by yourself can be tasking. And if you’re a newbie, it’s likely you’re apprehensive of adding acids in your skincare routine with an underlying fear of burns. Ahead, Dr Harshna Bijlani, celebrity skin expert and medical head, The AgeLess Clinic, helps us decode all things acids. 

Skincare acids 101

If you’ve noticed a surge in serums with active ingredients on your Instagram feed, you’re not alone. Indian skincare brands and international imports have been heavily populating the category in the country since 2020, but acids have been a component in skincare since ancient times. Cleopatra exfoliated her skin with lactic acid from milk and European women have been using stale wine (which contains tartic and malic acid) to rinse their skin. “Acids are active ingredients that address a number of different skincare concerns depending on the molecular size of the acid and its strength,” explains Dr Bijlani. “They address skin concerns like acne, pigmentation, signs of aging, clogged pores and skin cell turnover.” The first step to deciding which acid works for you is by factoring your skin type and concerns. If you’re unsure, it’s best to consult a dermatologist and then shop.

Is it safe to use an acid on your skin?

Acids used in skincare are mild and balanced to benefit your skin by brightening and exfoliating it, revealing a fresh glow. Plus, most acids are derived from natural sources. “They are made from natural substances like glycolic acid which is derived from sugarcane and lactic acid from milk. Mild acids work only on the surface of the skin and help with exfoliation and achieving a glow. They generally do not require any downtime and most do not actually ‘peel’ your skin.”

Glycolic acid

“A popular AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), glycolic acid helps with exfoliation, pigmentation and has anti-aging benefits. It is popularly used in exfoliators, serums, cleansers, toners and is suitable for all skin types.”

Lactic acid

“This is one of the milder AHAs and is a good pick for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It helps to brighten, exfoliate and hydrate skin.”

Salicylic acid

“Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) which works to control oil production, exfoliate your skin and reduce sebum production, which in turn makes it a great anti-acne ingredient. It can be used once a day or once every few days for those with acne-prone skin."

Antioxidant-rich acids

“Ferulic and ascorbic acid (the most popular variant of vitamin C) are filled with great antioxidants which help with pigmentation, fine lines, hydration and help fight free radical damage which is caused when unstable molecules within the skin damage healthy cells.” 

PHAs - Poly Hydroxy Acids

“PHAs like lactobionic acid and gluconolactone are good for people with very sensitive skin as they exfoliate on a milder level. They also provide benefits like skin smoothening and moisturising”

Hyaluronic acid

“It is popularly known for its hydrating properties. There are some great products that contain a mix of hyaluronic acid with ascorbic acid and various others that can work well for a range of skin types and concerns. It can carry 1000 times its weight in water, is beneficial for individuals with dry or mature skin.”

Usage and strength

“Most at-home skincare products range from 0.01% to 30% depending on the type of acid and product,” explains Dr Bijlani. “For a beginner, I would recommend using milder acids and smaller strengths.” She explains how and when to best incorporate acids in your routine.

Hyaluronic acid: Unlike most acids, this does not make your skin sensitive to the sun and hence, can be used in your AM as well as PM routine. Ideal strength is 1-2%.

AHAs (Glycolic and lactic acid): While they help brighten and exfoliate the skin, they do make it sensitive to the sun so I would recommend avoiding them during the day. Ideal strength should be lower than 8%.

How To Layer Acids In Your Skincare Routine

If done properly, exfoliating can be a powerful tool in your skincare routine to help prevent acne and keep skin and pores clean and smooth. But it’s easy to go wrong when using acids, especially when layering them in your skincare.

Here's how to layer acids in your skincare routine for maximum results. 

The Two Types Of Acid Exfoliators

Skincare exfoliators fall into two main categories – manual and chemical.

While manual exfoliants used to be all the range (think St Ives Apricot Scrub), they’ve taken a back seat in recent years thanks to the popularity of chemical exfoliants – AHAs, BHAs and PHAs.

While manual exfoliants still have a valid place in your skincare routine, since they are fairly self-explanatory to use, today, we’re focusing on exfoliants of the chemical variety, which can be trickier to work into your routine because they are pH dependent.

Intro To Acids

If you aren’t familiar with acids, these are the big guns of skincare – designed to treat a variety of common skin complaints like blackheads, whiteheads, breakouts, hyper-pigmentation and blocked pores.

Skincare-friendly acids are classed into two main categories: AHAs and BHAs.

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)

AHAs exfoliate the outer layer of skin, removing dead skin to uncover the fresh stuff. As they are water soluble, AHAs work well on dry, flaking and aging skin to stop pores from clogging and on hyper-pigmentation. They help brighten the skin for a clearer, more refined complexion.

This group of acids includes glycolic acid (one of the most common acids), lactic acid, mandelic acid and more.

BHAS (Beta Hydroxy Acids)

BHAs are oil soluble and exfoliate at a deeper level, making them excellent for keeping pores clear. They can also help to prevent breakouts and reduce inflammation. 

Common BHAs include salicylic acid and in Korean Beauty products, betaine salicylate. Key takeaway: AHA and BHA exfoliants work in a similar way –they unglue the bonds that leave dead skin stuck on the skin’s surface, allowing old skin to shed normally and reveal the smoother, fresher skin hiding beneath. For more on acids, tune into the Korean Beauty Show podcast at:  

Want more skincare tips delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up to our newsletter now and get a free gift with your first purchase. 

Can I Use BHAs And AHAs Together?

Short answer – yes, but not for everyone.

Combining them can cause irritation, so if you are prone to dry skin, sensitivity or redness, stick to just one.

On the other hand, if you have oily skin, combining BHAs and AHAs may be safe and even beneficial.

The key to layering acids comes down to pH levels. You need to start with the product with a lower pH and finish with the one with a higher pH. If you use a product that raises your skin’s pH first, the product with the lower pH will have to work to bring that number down instead of work on improving your skin, so it won’t be as effective.

Think of layering acids like double cleansing – start with your oil-soluble BHA first, and then move onto your AHA.

BHAs are typically formulated to be a pH of 3.5 and AHAs have to be formulated at a pH of under 4. You’ll want to use your BHA product first, not only because BHAs are lower in pH but also because they are oil soluble and AHAs are not.

A word of caution though – if you notice any redness, sensitivity, or excessive dryness, that’s a sign to slow down with your acids. Cut back to using them 2-3 times a week and alternate between your acids.

Check out our favourite chemical exfoliant toner, serum and cream. 

Can I Use An AHA/BHA With Vitamin C?

No.

As Vitamin C often has an exfoliating effect on the skin, we don’t generally recommend mixing the two. Aside from the potential irritation, these ingredients can inactivate your Vitamin C, rendering it useless.

If you want to combine the two and your skin is not affected by mixing acids, the correct order is Vitamin C, BHA and then AHA.

Can I Combine AHA/BHA With Retinols?

No.

Doing so can cause some serious irritation if they products are used together.

Can I Combine AHA/BHA With Hyaluronic Acid?

Yes!

In fact, this is an ideal combination. Hyaluronic acid doesn’t function like an AHA or BHA in that it does not strip your skin — it’s actually highly nourishing and hydrating, so having “acid” in the name is a bit misleading.

Hyaluronic acid is great for applying after any exfoliating acids.

For more on layering acids in your skin care routine tune into the Korean Beauty Show podcast here:

Can I Use More Than One Product That Has A BHA/AHA In It?

Yes, but it’s not necessary.

If you have a toner with a BHA/AHA combination as well as a serum there’s not much use using them both in the same routine – at worst, you risk irritating your skin. Better to use them separately and alternate days instead.

Do You Have Acne Prone Skin? Check out our guide for the best Korean skincare products for acne-prone skin here. 

Plus, to shop the best chemical exfoliants, take a look at our skincare acids collection. 

STYLE STORY – Your Go-To For K-Beauty

Got more questions on how to layer acids in your skincare routine? Drop them in the comments section below!

Shop Now

"The key to layering acids comes down to pH levels. You need to start with the product with a lower pH and finish with the one with a higher pH."

- STYLE STORY

Comments will be approved before showing up.