Cosmetics and personal care products are not required to be tested for safety before being allowed on the market. The Skin Deep® scoring system was designed to help the public understand whether a product is safe to use or whether it contains ingredients of concern.
Every product and ingredient in Skin Deep gets a two-part score – one for hazard and one for data availability. The safest products score well by both measures, with a low hazard rating and a fair or better data availability rating.
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract is used in combination with other ingredients in some of our Shampoos, Conditioners, Masks, Serums and Scalp treatments. It helps to provides effective moisturizing properties by helping the scalp to attract water and then to hold onto it. In addition it has a soothing effect on the scalp. Sometimes it is stated (mainly in skin care) that Sugarcane Extract itself also exfoliates and brightens the skin as it has a close relationship to the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) Glycolic Acid which can be derived from it and which is the most commonly used type of AHAs. Glycolic Acid helps to remove build-up of dead skin from the surface by working from inside the skin.
Sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum L.) is an abundant crop around the world, mostly used to produce ethanol and sugar. Due to its sizeable production, the accumulation of byproducts is extensive. In recent years, these materials have been used to produce high value products for several applications. The rich chemical composition can be explored as a source for phenolic compounds extracts, for the development of bioactive ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Therefore, this review aims to reflect on the potential of sugarcane extracts as ingredients for cosmetics and skin care products. The main conclusions are that, key phenolic compounds present in sugarcane extracts possess antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity, as well as inhibitory activity against skin ageing related enzymes and promotes collagen synthesis. These findings support the substantial potential use of these extracts as anti-ageing ingredients and as preservatives for the cosmetic industry, although focused studies for each application must be performed.
Introduction
Sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum L.) is a perennial monocot plant belonging to the grass (Poaceae) family, originated in Southeast Asia. This plant has been widely cultivated around the world mostly because of the high value of its stalks as source of sucrose used to produce sugar and ethanol. Hence, this crop is considered one of the most important plants with high economic value (del Río et al., 2015; Sampietro et al., 2006; Zheng et al., 2017). Both sugar and ethanol industries have a huge impact in the world’s economy, as 70 % of the world’s sugar production derives from sugarcane. Sugarcane is cultivated in one hundred and nine countries and according to the latest statistics, in 2018 around 1907 × 106 Mg/ha of sugarcane were produced worldwide (Dotaniya et al., 2016; Statista, 2020). Brazil is the biggest producer followed by India, China and Thailand (Dotaniya et al., 2016).
As in Fig. 1, the processing of sugarcane starts at the field where it is harvested, and the straw is cut mechanically. Then, at the factory called “usinas”, the canes are washed and sent to an extraction system where the juice is extracted and separated from bagasse. The sugarcane juice is then used to produce sugar. This massive production generates every year an extensive amount of byproducts such as bagasse, straw, molasses, filter cake and ashes (Dotaniya et al., 2016; Santos et al., 2020; Sarker et al., 2017). Bagasse is a fibrous residue of cane stalks, leftover from the crushing and extraction of the juice. Straw is left in the field as result of the sugarcane plant harvesting, and consists of leaves, stalks and plant tips (Santos et al., 2020; Sarker et al., 2017). Filter cake (or press mud) is a residue of sugarcane juice filtration process, in which the juice is clear and rises to the top and the mud goes to the bottom. Molasses are left after the production of sugar and are a dense, viscous liquid rich in sugars and containing a small percentage of water. About 92 % of these byproducts are burn for production of heat and electricity to supply the sugarcane processing factories, resulting in another byproduct – ashes (Jamora et al., 2019).
Amongst these byproducts, bagasse and straw are the main wastes generated by sugarcane processing, estimated that after the industrial process around 14 % of bagasse and 14 % of straw are produced The composition of both residues is similar. Bagasse consists of 39–45 % cellulose, 23–27 % hemicellulose, 19–32 % lignin, 1–3 % ashes and 5–7 % extractives, while straw is composed by 33–45 % cellulose, 18–30 % hemicellulose, 17–41 % lignin, 2–12 % ashes and 5–17 % extractives (Carvalho et al., 2015). A wide range of expression of these compounds has been reported in several studies, which can be attributed to several factors such as plant genetics, growth environment and processing conditions. Other compounds can also be found in these byproducts, such as free sugars (sucrose, glucose and fructose), starch, wax, amino acids, organic acids and mostly important phenolic compounds. Most of phenolic compounds are found freely in biomass and contribute to the extractive’s fractions, while others are entrapped in the lignocellulosic matrix (Canilha et al., 2012).
Although burning is an efficient and economical application to avoid wasting these byproducts, in recent years there has been the conscience that these byproducts could be used to produce high value products like biomolecules and bio-based products for several applications (da Silva et al., 2010; del Río et al., 2015; Pandey et al., 2000; Ramires et al., 2010; Sampietro et al., 2006; Zheng et al., 2017). Some of these applications are reviewed in Table 1. Most of these applications are grounded on the use of fiber and sugar fractions present in bagasse and straw, but other fractions and compounds have also demonstrated potential to be used as high value products. Although less reported in literature, sugarcane is an interesting source of phenolic acids, flavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids and other phytochemicals (Feng et al., 2014). Since then, sugarcane has attracted increased research attention on its potential therapeutic use (Ji et al., 2020a). This is especially because phenolic compounds are one of the most interesting groups of bioactive compounds found in plants, with potential applications in food, pharmaceuticals and nature-derived cosmetics (Adamska-szewczyk and Zgórka, 2019).
Thus, this review describes the most recent characterization of phenolic compounds in sugarcane and derived byproducts, as well as the potential applications of those extracts as bioactive ingredients with properties for cosmetic industry.
Section snippets
Phenolic compounds of sugarcane and sugarcane byproducts
Phenolic compounds are secondary metabolites that derive from pentose phosphate, shikimate and phenylpropanoid pathways in plants (Balasundram et al., 2006). In terms of structure, phenolic compounds possess an aromatic ring, bearing one or more hydroxyl substituents, and ranging from simpler phenolic molecules to highly polymerized compounds (Balasundram et al., 2006). These compounds are divided into several classes according to the number of phenol rings and the structural elements that bind
General bioactivities of phenolic compounds and the importance for cosmetic applications
The cosmetic industry is a wide and growing industry that can be traced back to ancient times as early as Egyptian, Greek and Roman eras. Among cosmetics, fragrances and personal care products, the cosmetic industry is a growing economic sector (Kumar, 2005; Mukherjee et al., 2011), and in 2017, the European cosmetic market was valued in €77,6 billion (Bom et al., 2019).
The increased interest for natural compounds has been trending in this industry, with the commercialization of several
Conclusion
The present manuscript reviewed the potential of sugarcane extracts as an ingredient for cosmetic industry. This review started with the premise that these extracts are rich in phenolic compounds and most of these compounds were already shown to promote relevant biological activities that are important assets in cosmetic products. Sugarcane extracts have been reported to possess phenolic compounds, mostly phenolic acids such as caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, coumaric acid, ellagic acid,
Declaration of Competing Interest
The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.
Acknowledgment
This work was supported by Amyris Bio Products Portugal Unipessoal Lda and Escola Superior de Biotecnologia – Universidade Católica Portuguesa through Alchemy project- Capturing high value from industrial fermentation bio products (POCI-01−0247-FEDER-027578). The authors would also like to thank the scientific collaboration under the FCT project UID/Multi/50016/2019.
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2023, Waste Management Show abstractNavigate Down The conversion processes of sugarcane into direct-consumption sugar and juice are generating a tremendous amount of waste, the so-called sugarcane bagasse (SCB). Biochar preparation is among the practical solutions aiming to manage and valorize SCB into high added-value functional material (FM). Herein, we propose a novel zero-waste pathway to fabricate two FMs from one biomass. The SCB was first macerated and ultrasonicated to obtain the natural extract that served as bio-reducing medium. Then, the H2O/EtOH-extracted SCB was in-situ impregnated with a bimetallic solution of copper and silver nitrates. The process produced an intermediate composite (FM0), Ag/Cu-Ag+/Cu2+-loaded SCB which was carbonized to elaborate Ag/Cu-Biochar (FM1), free Ag/Cu nanoparticles (FM2) were obtained by microwaving the residual liquid waste. FM1 exhibited high catalytic activity for the total Fenton-like degradation of methylene blue. The experimental data followed the pseudo-first and the pseudo-second order rate laws with apparent degradation rate constants K1 45 10−3 min−1 and K2 0.115 g.mg−1.min−1, respectively. FM0, FM1 and FM2 were tested as new anti-kinetoplastid materials against two flagellated protozoans namely the Leishmania spp and the Trypanosoma cruzi. Notably, Ag/Cu (FM2) showed exceptional leishmanicidal and trypanocidal effects with IC50 values of 2.909 ± 0.051, 3.580 ± 0.016 and 3.020 ± 0.372 ppm for L.donovani, L. amazonensis and Trypanosoma cruzi, respectively. In this way, we combine green chemistry and agrowaste valorization in a full zero-waste process, to address the 3rd (indicator 3.3.5) and 6th (indicator 6.3.1) United Nations sustainable development goals, ″Good Health and Well-Being″ and ″Clean Water and Sanitation″. 2021, Food Bioscience Show abstractNavigate Down Saccharum officinarum L., commonly known as sugarcane, is one of the most widely cultivated crops worldwide. In addition to its global value as the main source of sucrose, sugarcane possesses a variety of bioactivities owing to its myriad constituents. Despite the reported health benefits of sugarcane, phytochemical studies in sugarcane are scarce and its bioactive compounds have still not been adequately exploited. This review presents an updated knowledge of the potential bioactivities of sugarcane and its by-products in relation to its phytochemical profiles. We present a thorough understanding of the pharmacological activities of sugarcane and its by-products with a future prospective for maximizing their benefits as valuable medicinal products, in addition to opening new venues in the field of sugarcane industry. Various techniques used for sugarcane juice preservation as major product to maintain its bioactive compounds and stability are presented which in turn could enhance its introduction to a wider market. 2022, Cellulose 2022, Pharmaceuticals 2022, ACS Sustainable Chemistry and Engineering 2022, Biomass Conversion and BiorefineryCited by (7)
Green, zero-waste pathway to fabricate supported nanocatalysts and anti-kinetoplastid agents from sugarcane bagasse
More than sweet: A phytochemical and pharmacological review of sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum L.)
Effect of microfluidizing cycles after citric acid hydrolysis on the production yield and aspect ratio of cellulose nanocrystals
Ethanolic Fenugreek Extract: Its Molecular Mechanisms against Skin Aging and the Enhanced Functions by Nanoencapsulation
Sugar-Core Synthesized Multibranched Polylactic Acid and Its Diacrylate Blends as a UV LED-Curable Coating with Enhanced Toughness and Performance
Novel use of sugarcane leaf polysaccharide in κ-carrageenan blend hydrogel
Research article Food Chemistry, Volume 141, Issue 1, 2013, pp. 466-472 Show abstractNavigate Down Sugarcane molasses is a rich source of antioxidant materials with peroxyl radical scavenging effects. To explore the potent antioxidant activity of sugarcane molasses against 2,2′-azobis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride (AAPH)-induced peroxyl radicals, 7 methanolic fractions of sugarcane molasses (F1–F7) were separated via bioassay-guided fractionation and evaluated by oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC), cellular antioxidant activity (CAA), and oxidative DNA damage protective activity assays. The ORAC values of sugarcane molasses fractions ranged from 4399 to 6266 μmol TE/g, whilst the EC50 values for CAA ranged from 3.7 to 5.9 μg/ml. Moreover, it was found that sugarcane molasses fractions, particularly F6 and F7, could protect against oxidative DNA damage caused by peroxyl radicals at an effective concentration of 100 μg/ml. Ten phenolic constituents were identified in the fractions, including known antioxidative compounds, viz., schaftoside, isoschaftoside, ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, and p-hydroxybenzaldehyde. Research article Industrial Crops and Products, Volume 77, 2015, pp. 992-1000 Show abstractNavigate Down The composition of lipophilic phytochemicals in sugarcane bagasse and straw, the two major residues of sugarcane processing, was investigated in detail by gas chromatography and mass spectrometry. The composition of the lipids from sugarcane bagasse and straw was completely different from each other. While the extracts of sugarcane bagasse were dominated by n-aldehydes (ca. 48% of all identified lipids) and n-fatty alcohols (ca. 23%) with lower amounts of n-fatty acids (10%) and steroid ketones (14%), the extracts from sugarcane straw were strongly dominated by n-fatty acids (accounting for ca. 60% of all identified compounds) with significant amounts of steroid compounds, particularly sterols (10%) and steroid ketones (14%). Tocopherols and triterpenols were also found, being particularly abundant among the extractives of sugarcane straw. Sugarcane bagasse and straw can thus be considered as promising feedstocks for obtaining highly valuable phytochemicals of nutraceutical or pharmaceutical interest. Research article Industrial Crops and Products, Volume 76, 2015, pp. 95-103 Show abstractNavigate Down Extraction of high-value products from agro-industrial waste is an important component for the development of a sustainable bioeconomy. In this work, natural wax extraction was carried out on different types of sugarcane waste (rind, leaf and bagasse) using supercritical CO2 (scCO2). Substantial quantities of long-chain aldehydes and n-policosanols (nutraceutical compounds) were found in the rind (83% of total composition). Interestingly, the wax obtained from the leaf residues varied from other types of waxes from sugarcane waste, with low aldehyde and n-policosanol contents (normally found in high quantities) and considerable amounts of high-value triterpenoids (169 ±6 mg/g wax), which have well-known medicinal properties. The use of sugarcane leaf residues for the extraction of waxes has not been previously considered, though the amount of these residues increased significantly after the switch to green harvesting. Sugarcane bagasse wax showed the highest ester composition (37 ± 1.5 mg/g of wax), which can be useful in a host of applications, ranging from cosmetics to hard wax polishes, lubricants, coatings and plasticisers. Research article Journal of Environmental Chemical Engineering, Volume 9, Issue 5, 2021, Article 106175 Show abstractNavigate Down Olea europaea L. is historically one of the most important trees of the Mediterranean countries. A second-order polynomial models were used to optimize the recovery of polyphenols from olive leaves from two typically produced Portuguese cultivars ‘Negrinha do Freixo’ and ‘Cornicabra’. The model obtained produced a satisfactory fit for both cultivars for total polyphenols, total flavonoids, and antioxidant activity. At the best conditions (6 h, 50% ethanol and 1:20 w-v), extracts with a higher level of phenolics were obtained for the cultivar ‘Negrinha do Freixo’ (40.14 ± 4.35 mg GAE g-1 dry leaves) followed by ‘Cornicabra’ (27.10 ± 1.29 mg GAE g-1 dry leaves). The predominant phenolic acids were oleuropein derivatives accounting for a total amount of 58.81 and 23.49 mg g-1 dry leaf followed by oleosides with 45.16 and 32.09 mg g-1 dry leaf in ‘Negrinha’ and ‘Cornicabra’ respectively. Extracts had a strong potential as an antiaging ingredient and cosmetic/food preservative exhibiting antioxidant activity, capacity to inhibit elastase (82.5% and 87.5%), collagenase (98.7% and 50%) and tyrosinase (50% and 33%) for ‘Negrinha do Freixo’ and ‘Cornicabra’, respectively at a concentration of 5 mg mL-1. The ‘Negrinha do Freixo’ had the highest potential as an antimicrobial agent at 50 mg mL-1 being the minimum inhibitory concentration for E. coli, S. enterica and S. aureus and exhibited an inhibition of 70% and 67% for P. aeruginosa and B. cereus, respectively. Research article Industrial Crops and Products, Volume 101, 2017, pp. 104-114 Show abstractNavigate Down Sugarcane bagasse, one of the most abundant agro-food by-products, is a very promising raw material available at low cost for recovering bioactive substances. In this study, the total phenolic content was measured by Folin-Ciocalteu method and the antioxidant activity of the extracts was determined by DPPHRecommended articles (6)
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Research article
Kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus L.) seed oil: Application as cosmetic product ingredients
Industrial Crops and Products, Volume 156, 2020, Article 112871
Show abstractNavigate Down
The effectiveness and efficiency of a cosmetic product depends not only on the active ingredients, but also on the stability of formulation devoted in improving the bio-functionality. Thus, improving the stability of topical applications with vitamin E is important. The study aimed to optimise kenaf seed oil percentage on gel-cream formulations supplemented with palm-based α-tocopherol and determine their physicochemical properties, antioxidant activities, and α-tocopherol content. The samples were produced by high shear homogenisation and subjected to optimisation to obtain the best formulation with good physical stability and antioxidant activities. The antioxidant activities were determined by radical scavenging assays and α-tocopherol content was quantified by ultra-high performance chromatography. Vitamin E gel-cream formulated from 9% kenaf seed oil (S3) was selected based on its stability in viscosity and antioxidant activities. S3, with pH 6.02 showed viscosity value at 6106.3 cP was physically stable. Also, the α-tocopherol obtained for S3 was 9.34 mg/g sample that indicated 3.63 mg TE/g sample and 10.42 mg TE/g sample for diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and 2,2-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzot-hiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) radical scavenging activities, respectively. For 12 weeks storage stability study at 25 ± 2 °C and 40 ± 2 °C, S3 showed good microbial stability but with mild depletion of tocopherol content. Overall, the results herein gathered are very promising towards the development of new cosmetic formulations using kenaf seed oil and palm-based α-tocopherol.